Today I took Daisy, our new boat, out in the bay for our first sail and despite a few butterflies to start we had a great time getting to know her. During the trial, some more small jobs became evident and that will keep me from the easel a little longer than planned. So tonight I fell back onto one of my favourite subjects. Rivers are an endless source of delight and inspiration to me and despite the demands of Daisy, my new mistress, I managed to produce this painting.
Category Archives: Living in Turkey
Fethiye Palm Island
This little corner of Fethiye is in an area subject to major redevelopment at present, and often overlooked by residents and visitors alike, mostly due to being focused on the traffic hazard, I suspect. Since I took this photo it has been enhanced with the addition of a huge TV advertising screen on the island and a massive pediment fronting the jeweller’s shop on the left. There is also now, to the right, the major works of the Fethiye Amphitheatre Restoration Project and there seem to be more buildings on the hillside too.
As I said last week, I’ve been getting the boat ready and not had much free time for painting but I’m really pleased to finish this scene as I think it highlights one of the easily missed views of this amazing place.
Antifouling blues
Well, it’s been a week since I last posted anything although I’ve been doing loads of painting. Unfortunately only rolling several coats of sky blue antifouling paint onto the bottom of my boat! However, it’s finished now, until next year of course, and Daisy goes back in the water tomorrow. That’s the boat, not our Yorkshire Terrier who coincidentally shares the same name.
The Colour Purple
A chat with Gina about the 2013 Spring/Summer fashion colours got me thinking about just how many neon colours there are in nature. Acid greens and yellows in Spring, vivid pink and orange sunsets, ocean blues and the violets and purples of distant hills. I suppose that’s why I am so dazzled by the Colourists and Impressionists who gave full expression to what lay right in front of them and how brave they were!
All that talk of food in my last post kept me in the mood for another French autumn picture. I can smell the lavender and hay and feel that luscious late heat coming off the well baked hills.
Armagnac or Rakı?
Before we moved to Turkey we had an apartment on the Blv. des Pyrenees in the beautiful French town of Pau. When you drove south the road signs read like a wonderful menu, a litany of famous dishes, wines and culinary delights. Bayonne, Champagne, Camembert, Bourgogne, Evian, Dijon, Roquefort, Bordeaux, Armagnac, Ossau-Iraty ……
Turkish cuisines are regional too and although not quite as famous as their French counterparts they also represent the best and most abundant local ingredients and have a long history.
The cooking of Istanbul, Bursa, Izmir, and rest of the Aegean region shows Ottoman influences with a lighter use of spices, and a preference for rice. The cuisine of the Black Sea naturally uses fish especially the anchovy (hamsi) with Balkan and Slavic influences, and includes maize dishes. The cuisine of the southeast is famous for kebabs and dough-based desserts such as baklava and Kunefe. The cuisines of the Med are rich in vegetables, herbs, and fish while Central Anatolia has many famous specialties, such as kashkak, manti from Kayseri and gozleme (pancakes)
A specialty’s name sometimes includes that of a city or region, and often refer to the specific technique or ingredients used in that area. For example, the difference between an Urfa kebab and Adana kebab is the thickness of the skewer and the amount of chilli it contains. Urfa kebab is less spicy and thicker than adana kebab.
Bamboo
We were on our way to the Yoruk Museum and Restaurant, near Ciftlik run by the always hospitable Enver and Aysun Yalcin and their family. The museum is off the beaten track and I took the wrong turning. We found ourselves on a narrow lane that soon dwindled into a track running beside a small stream completely overgrown with bamboo. We pressed on, eagerly anticipating our “eat and drink as much as you like” breakfast, the tabletop overflowing with a huge selection of locally grown and home made dishes. But as we motored on, like the Africa Queen on wheels, the lane became narrower, the bamboo denser and our guests increasingly nervous. I kept thinking it would clear eventually but finally we were forced to a halt, surrounded on three sides by an inpenetrable wall of the stuff, and I had to reverse two or three kilometers back to the turn-off. Perhaps I could add a machete to the car emergency kit for next time and send Gina out in front to hack a path. Mmmm….
Entelköy Efeköy Karsi
There is a Turkish film called Entelköy Efeköy Karsi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFmswW2tUt4 with English subtitles) which beautifully and hilariously illustrates the lack of understanding between the incoming “enlightened, arty and enviromentally aware” townies and the farming community upon whom they descend. The story revolves around the relationship between the leaders of the two camps and how love and profit eventually lead to reconciliation. I was reminded of this wide difference in attitude on a walk through the winter woodland above Esenkoy yesterday morning in the excellent company of Oludeniz Hash Harriers. Any clearing in these woods with nearby car access was full of litter, and I do mean full. Yet all summer Turkish families will come for traditional picnics and barbecues and sit happily amongst the piles of debris to add their own contribution of wrappings, broken glass and dirty tissues at the end of the day. It’s heartbreaking to me to despoil such natural beauty, and it will take a generation to change. On a positive note, more and more often, I see local schoolchildren go out of their way to use the litter bins that have appeared all across Fethiye. Somebody, somewhere deserves due credit and our gratitude for this change.
Today is flying by…
It’s been one of those glorious winter days here, just perfect and, unlike those childhood days that seemed to last forever, this one is flying by. Ziggy, our 6 month Vizla ate the fairy lights that Gina hung in the potted trees flanking the porch. I managed to recover and rewire what was left. I repotted a couple of pot-bound plants on the terrace. Early ants have been repelled from colonising the garden wall lights with a combination of ant powder and sealant. I watched my bids fail to win some boat electronics on eBay. This turned out to be a lucky thing as I discovered Paypal were not going to let me access my UK account from here. I read the Sunday papers and replied to the mail and I went into the woods to collect some kindling. Then I painted this.
In 25 minute our neighbours Bob and Pauline are arriving for a steak and kidney pie and I’m cooking the starter. As I said, today is flying by…..
Not in Surbiton
The fields around Fethiye are all zoned and numbered as part of the City Plan. In it are drawn the roads and parks and schools alongside the residential plots. In other words the whole area could be described as one large building plot and buildings spring up apparently at random, dotted around the unseen grid but actually located with all the precision that GPS can provide. These fields are, in most cases, still being farmed as smallholdings or greenhouses. Many are sold and await the bulldozer, some are entangled by Turkish inheritance law and many may never be sold, despite their astronomical and ever increasing prices, because the owners are happy doing what they have always done. Consequently, while living in a modern villa or apartment in a Turkish town, unlike in Surbiton, it’s not at all unusual to have neighbours keepng sheep, goats, chickens and the occasional cow; growing a crop of cauliflowers or cabbages; tending greenhouses full of tomatoes and peppers and working a donkey or two.
Last summer, I watched my neighbour hand shearing her flock of goats and sheep. These animals are moved to various bits of land around the neighbourhood in a complex grazing pattern that seamlessly interleaves with her neighbours. Sometimes you see them tied along a busy roadside verge, another time in a field, later fed on cuttings and scraps outside her house. If you can’t see them, you can probably smell them! She worked long and hard that day in the heat of summer and I’m sure her flock appreciated the effort.
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The Dreaded Lurgi
So many of our friends, family and the expat population here have fallen foul of the latest flu virus. It’s even nastier than usual and probably arrived onboard the Xmas flights from the UK. My contribution to making victims and their carers feel a little better is to point them to this article by Michael Quinion. The Dreaded Lurgi
The cottage in today’s painting can be found just behind the Sarnic restaurant. I have no idea who owns the building but In my opinion, the simple, sympathetic restoration makes me happy and shows what might be achieved in Kayakoy.